Paella is not just a rice dish with chicken. In Valencia paella has the category of institution, it is governed by rules, traditions and hierarchies, it manages its own times, full of rituals before, during and after the central act that is its elaboration. Moreover, it is not an exaggeration to say that we can understand several aspects of Valencian society through the analysis of an experience such as paella.
And if we were to immerse ourselves fully in this supposed study, there is no better place to start than La barraca de Toni Montoliu.
On the outskirts of Valencia, in the middle of Meliana’ s orchard, this corner has been one of the meccas of the Valencian dish for decades. More than just a simple restaurant.
The experience of eating at Toni Montoliu: a family plan in Valencia.
Toni and Vicent Montoliu, at the helm of the business, represent the essence of this dish with a 100% Valencian experience. Rides through the orchard in buggies, paella cooked over firewood, snacks brought directly from the adjoining land, a stable with horses and animals within the restaurant’s plot for the enjoyment of the little ones and a barraca as the centerpiece of lunches, meetings and dinners.
All this earned him in 2020 the recognition of Wikipaella with the Chef of the Year award.
Montoliu, a lover of the Valencian orchard, proposes to know from this traditional space how people lived in the orchard in the early twentieth century, how the work was, what recipes were made and what it means to live in a natural environment just a step away from the city.“An open window to the great garden of Europe“, as they themselves define it.
The paella made with orange wood fire is one of their specialties, as well as the esgarraet, the Valencian tomato and onion salad or a simple but unique dessert such as the orange from the orchard with honey and walnuts.
His restaurant is, in fact, one of the best in the whole Valencian Community when it comes to eating rice. To immerse yourself in this experience, you just have to go to Partida de l’Ermita, 25 ( between Meliana and Foios) and let yourself be carried away by the advice and wisdom of the master Montoliu.
Montoliu’s menu in detail
Here everyone eats the same, a unique menu with all the essentials of Valencian gastronomy. The price is around 30 € per person, without drinks, with a children’s option at around 15 €.
As starters, they serve hummus of garrofó, bravas, all i pebre, esgarraet or artichokes from the garden and seasonal salad before the main course, which is always Valencian paella cooked over a wood fire.
The paella is made with rice from the palm grove, extra virgin olive oil from the Sierra d’Espadà, free-range chicken, rabbit, duck, ferradura, garrofó de la cella negra, tomato, sweet paprika, snails and saffron.
To finish roasted pumpkin, Valencian orange with honey, seasonal fruit, coffee, coca cristina, coca en llanda and shot of mistela.